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Hiking and Biking in Utah: Arches and Capitol Reef National Parks

Utah’s red rock country has been on my bucket list for a long time, ever since I visited Sedona, AZ a few years ago. We visited over Thanksgiving weekend (late November) and the weather was a bit chilly at night but we had perfect 40s during the day; If we had timed our trip a bit earlier it might have been too hot for outdoor activities. Utah’s sister state, Colorado, has icy roads this time of year. Utah Encourages RV Vacations; just rent a motorhome, live and cook in national parks for a true “nomadic” experience. But for us poor graduate students, we had to settle for coming back to boring hotel rooms every night.

We wanted to explore a few national parks in Utah – Capitol Reef and Arches. Both have plenty of panoramic views to please your retinas. The sun-drenched red rocks made for spectacular photos, here, at sunrise and sunset. At Capitol Reef, our goal was to hike the cottonwood wash; we started on foot only to realize we were on the wrong track. In retrospect, the starting points for the various trails weren’t too clear when driving from Highway 24. Many of the hiking trails here run along slot canyons – narrow paths with tall red cliffs on either side – and you’re naturally “thermostated”, just passing through them.

Mountain biking in Arches National Park is fun for everyone on the downhill trails; the rest of the trail was very breathless and breathy for a few of us. Certainly not a sport for the faint-hearted! Nonetheless, the trails take you deep into the backcountry of the canyon where it could easily qualify for Martian terrain. The easy loop (Lazy – EZ) has some dirt allowing for grip but once on the rock (Bar-B) learn to trust your bike. We were out of the park by sunset and cycled on paved roads back to town. Shuttle services are available for transporting men and bikes but we chose to only take it to enter the park in the morning. It was a good decision, in hindsight, because the way back was just going down the old highway 191 back to Moab. Although refreshing, the sight of Poison Spider (our bike rental shop) was a huge relief at the end of an exhausting day. And I love their free bottled water! Pile on sunscreen and plenty of fluids and invest in a pair of padded shorts (ouch!) before entering the park.

Apart from the adventure activities, spending half a day along the park road can also be worthwhile. Many viewpoints, including the Window Section, Turret Arch, and Balanced Rock, are a short distance from the main road.

Torrey is a nice little town to stay in if you want to explore Capitol Reef National Park. We landed on Thanksgiving and everything was closed except for a Rim Rock restaurant run by a lone guy who was struggling between waiting for tables and cooking. The pizzas were a sure bet on the menu and they went down well. Moab, near Arches and Canyon Lands, is an awesome town to kick back and stay. If I had more time in Moab, I would have loved to rent a Hummer and drive inside the park.

In my opinion, the four landlocked states – Utah, Colorado, Wyoming and New Mexico – offer more authentic American experiences than the coastal cities of New York and Los Angeles. Long stretches of green countryside, rocky mountains covered in crumpled snow, boiling sulfur springs, a rich variety of wildlife, grand canyons and gorges, the meandering and fast Colorado River…the list goes on. Yet I have rarely seen them on a standard tourist’s itinerary. Really sad !

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